There are not many places in the world where one can see wild horses grazing along the beach of a pristine, highly secluded barrier island. A scenic wildlife habitat, Cumberland Island, measuring about 18 miles long by 3 miles wide, is reportedly the largest "wilderness island" in the U.S.  Cumberland will have considerable appeal if you're interested in both a beautiful, natural setting and history. A setting where the crumbling ruins of a Carnegie mansion hint of the grandeur of nineteenth century days past, and of a high society life that most of us can only imagine.

With limited public access to Cumberland Island by a twice-a-day National Park Service ferry from St. Marys, Georgia, Cumberland is truly a very private island tucked off the southeast corner of the Georgia "mainland."  Only 300 visitors are allowed per day, on an island the size of around Manhattan.  Located adjacent to Amelia Island, Florida, Cumberland is only a short boat ride away and is an excursion you won't want to miss if you are staying on Amelia and have time to explore.  There's nothing quite like it, and you'll remember it fondly.  So, if you're going to be in the area for several days, earmark one day for Cumberland Island. The Greyfield Inn (see below) also offers a private ferry for those staying at the bed and breakfast inn on Cumberland Island.

Read extensive eMagazine article about this wilderness island, "Is Tranquility the Tonic Seek?  The Awe of Cumberland Island", with lots of photos.

Nature, Serenity, Wildlife, Exclusive Privacy

Avid naturalists and ecological tourists will really appreciate Cumberland.  You may get glimpses of wild horses, deer, wild turkeys, scampering armadillos, and a variety of birds including Snowy Egrets and a Great Blue Heron (not to mention dolphins swimming alongside the boat on the short journey to the island).  Solitary walks on 16 miles of tranquil beachfront await you, along with many shell varieties for collectors, including whelks, sand dollars, cockles, Pecten scallop shells and olive shells. When on Cumberland's shore, you may not see anyone for miles. Picture yourself dropped on a uninhabited island, and this will be about as close as you can get to exclusive privacy, but still be a short boat ride back to civilization.

It's no wonder that the late John F. Kennedy, Jr.  and his late wife Carolyn, chose the magnificent natural setting and seclusion of Cumberland Island for their secretive wedding.  (The Kennedy clan came into Fernandina Beach and took the Greyfield Inn's ferry over to Cumberland for the wedding. Word spread quickly around this small town, but it took several more days for the national press to find out about JFK Jr.'s secret trip to the altar, in a tiny, antiquated church on Cumberland Island.)  Cumberland reportedly was one of John Jr.'s favorite escapes, and he had visited this island since he was a teenager.

The Ruins of Dungeness

History buffs will like visiting the small museum-house which displays old photos and the historical facts of the island and its previous inhabitants -- the Carnegies.  The ruins of their mansion, Dungeness, promises a unique look back, as your mind's eye pictures the grand balls and famous high society families that frequented this home in the nineteenth century, such as the Vanderbilt's and Dupont's.  Even though much of Cumberland Island is a National Park, daily visitors are restricted.

The Romantic Greyfield Inn, a Bed & Breakfast

Apart from a few campsites suitable for diehard campers, the only public accommodations on the island are offered by the Greyfield Inn.  This inn, built in 1900, was chosen as one of the "Top 10 most romantic inns" by American Historic Inns. 

To make this list, inns are selected for various features, including overall "romantic mystique."  A two-night minimum stay is required, however, on the weekends.  You may wish to leave the kids at home for this getaway, but the inn does state that "children 6-years-plus are welcomed."  But also beware that the inn's phone is a radio-phone for emergencies only and your cell phone is unlikely to work.  You will be visiting an undeveloped island, a highly-protected national seashore with no stores, no street lights, no public transportation (no paved roads), no TVs in your room. This is definitely the place to bring that book you've been wanting to read, but can't find the time. Leave your technology at home and get away, really far away, from it all!

If you desire a truly unique experience where tranquility is the tonic you seek, along with great food (and reportedly good dinner conversation, too), then the Greyfield Inn is the place.   This graceful home is a very special treat, indeed, to get away from it all, relax and de-stress -- as long as the cost doesn't stress your wallet, that is.   Rates for double occupancy range from around $400-plus per night, but do include lots: a southern breakfast, picnic lunch, gourmet dinner, a natural history jeep tour of the island, and ferry service to and from Fernandina Beach on the inn's private ferry. A visit to Cumberland Island will likely be one of the most unique, natural locations you have ever had the opportunity to visit, and is highly recommended if you are visiting the Amelia Island area. For complete information, visit the Greyfield Inn's website. 

Note:  Lodging prices referred to in this article are subject to change.