From Amelia Island Living.com

Tranquility the Tonic You Seek? Cumberland Island -- Feast for Eyes and Soul

Posted in: Island Perspective

By W. B. Lawson
Apr 28, 2007 - 9:20:00 AM

Windswept Expansive Dunes Inspire Awe on Cumberland Island

There aren't many places in the world where one can see wild horses grazing along the beach of a preserved, secluded barrier island frozen in time. A setting where the crumbling ruins of a Carnegie mansion hint of the grandeur of nineteenth century days past, and of a high society life that most of us can only imagine.

If you appreciate an untouched setting –- an island that is largely

Blue Sky and Massive Dunes, Cumberland Island

a protected state park, with expansive windswept dunes marked only by native animal tracks (of wildlife like armadillos, deer, wild turkeys and wild horses), then treat yourself to a trip to Cumberland Island, Georgia. When hiking through the trails on Cumberland, you notice the quiet stillness of the forest, interrupted only by rustling leaves in the breeze or an animal scampering in the underbrush.

A visit to Cumberland Island will likely be one of the most unique, natural locations you've ever had the opportunity to visit, and is highly recommended. Cumberland Island was a favorite secret getaway of the late John F. Kennedy, Jr. (more about that below).

A protected National Seashore, Cumberland is mostly undeveloped. Picture in your mind for a moment, no stores, no street lights (no paved roads for that matter), no public transportation, and restricted daily access by the public. To put this into perspective, only 300 people a day are allowed on the island -- an island that's larger than Manhattan. A scenic wildlife habitat, Cumberland Island measures about 17.5 miles long by 3 miles wide, and reportedly is the largest "wilderness island" in the U.S. Cumberland will have considerable appeal if you're interested in both a beautiful, natural setting and history.

Cumberland is actually larger in size than its neighbor, Amelia Island, yet almost uninhabited, with the exception of a tiny number of homes of private landowners. The other residents of the island are the native wildlife such as marsh rabbits, alligators, deer, bob cats, raccoons, feral horses, and birds, to name just a few. Avid naturalists and ecological tourists will really appreciate Cumberland.

NEED TO ESCAPE? REALLY GET AWAY FROM IT ALL ON CUMBERLAND ISLAND

Cumberland Island Dunes & Grasses

Cumberland is located off the southeast corner of the Georgia mainland. Cumberland is one of the largest barrier islands in a chain of islands along the Atlantic Coast, stretching from Cape Hatteras, NC south to the Talbot Islands in northeast Florida. The Talbot Islands (Florida State Parks) sit at the foot of Amelia's southern tip. Located adjacent to Amelia Island, Florida, Cumberland is so close to neighboring Amelia, that you can actually see it across the Cumberland Sound from Amelia’s northend. Cumberland is plainly visible across the water from Fort Clinch, a pre-civil war brick fortress perched on Amelia’s shoreline (Fort Clinch State Park occupies over 1,150 acres on Amelia Island’s northend).

CUMBERLAND IS A FEAST FOR THE EYES AND THE SOUL

Marsh Side of the Island, Cumberland

If you’re a local resident and have never experienced the wonder of Cumberland Island, then shame on you! It's a feast for the eyes and the soul. You may not want to rush back to 21st century society after glimpsing a simpler time and a natural paradise. It’s easy to dream about what it would be like to live on this island frozen in time -- a more tranquil time before traffic, shopping malls, condos, cable TV, and the internet.

SPEND A DAY ADMIRING NATURE AND ENJOYING THE SERENITY

Spanish Moss-Laden Oaks Cover Cumberland Island

The first time I visited this island years ago, besides seeing wild horses, I recall seeing a wild turkey, a baby armadillo, and a variety of birds (not to mention dolphins alongside the boat on the short journey to the island). You can expect solitary walks on miles of tranquil, completely deserted beachfront, along with plenty of shell varieties for collectors. The dune system on the island is vast and inspires awe – primary dunes and rear dunes – and you walk along paths to the beach through an interdune meadow. It’s unlikely that you’ve ever seen dunes like those of Cumberland Island anywhere else.

A GLORIOUS APRIL DAY ON CUMBERLAND ISLAND

Sandy "Road" Cut Through Maritime Forest, Cumberland Island

I had the opportunity to access the island (with advance permission arranged) via a private dock on the island. It was a perfect spring day -– blue skies, mild temps and no pestering bugs! (Bringing bug spray on trips to Cumberland is always advised!)

The jeep we were promised to traverse the island was mistakenly “hijacked” by an island employee (who hadn’t known it was reserved for our party). As we were approaching the island by boat, we could see in the distance our jeep driving away. So we ended up hiking around for several hours and cut across the island on a sandy trail through the thick maritime forest to the beach side of the island. Note that you cannot take a day trip to Cumberland and hire a jeep to ride around the island. Our jeep was a special one-time arrangement by an "insider." But you can get a jeep tour if you stay overnight at the only inn on the island, Greyfield (see more below about the only public lodging available on the island.)

Hammock in the Dunes, Cumberland Island

Our small group enjoyed a picnic lunch at a private gazebo perched at the edge of the sand dunes. We each delighted in a few moments of rest and a gentle sea breeze, stretched out on the shaded rope hammock hung beneath the gazebo. (This hammock will not soon be forgotten!)

THE NOTORIOUS WILD HORSES OF CUMBERLAND ISLAND

When we reached the beach, we ran after three wild horses we spotted far down the shoreline, trying to get closer for a photo before they were out of sight. It was a workout, trying to catch up with them – two adults and a colt. Cumberland has a

The Wild Horses of Cumberland Roam the Beach

population of feral horses that roam the island freely. They subsist on the island’s natural bounty such as its marsh grasses and sea oats (about a third of Cumberland is salt marsh). The feral horses seen on Cumberland today reportedly originated from domestic stock released on the island in the early 1900s.

Later in the afternoon, six wild horses approached us on a sandy “road” cut through the island. Another photo opportunity, we slowly walked past them on the trail. Seemingly tame, the horses did not live up to their “wild” name, and just sauntered over to the side of the path and let us pass by. They observed us with curiosity, but just stood there, using long tails to

SIx Wild Horses, Cumberland Island

swat the mosquitoes that seemed to be hanging around them. After we went by, they turned back onto middle of the trail and continued down on their way. However, note that the Park Service warns that you should not approach the feral horses or try to feed them – they can be dangerous.

THE RUINS OF A MANSION, DUNGENESS…

Small Museum, Cumberland Island

The original inhabitants of the island were Indians who reportedly occupied the island for over 3,000 years, but Cumberland also had a slave population. During the 1850s, the island's population peaked at 520 people, "65 were white, 455 were black slaves," according to a book by Mary Bullard. History buffs will like visiting the small museum-house on the island which displays old photos and the historical facts of the island and its previous inhabitants -- the Carnegies.

The ruins of their mansion, Dungeness, promises a unique look back, as your mind's eye pictures the grand balls and famous high society families that frequented this home in the nineteenth century, such as the Vanderbilt's and Dupont's. Even from the water when boating, if you look carefully, rising up from the maritime forest, you can see the two chimney stacks of Dungeness extending above the tree canopy.

A very comprehensive book, researched for more than 20 years, is "Cumberland Island, A History," by Mary Bullard (available online.) Ms. Bullard is a descendant of the Carnegie family, the last owners of the island before the Federal government acquired most of it in 1972, and Cumberland was designated a National Seashore.

FIRE DESTROYS DUNGENESS IN 1959

The Ruins of Dungeness, A Carnegie Mansion

There are only ruins left, as the Carnegie home was destroyed by fire in 1959 -- a fire that was intentionally set (but no one was ever charged with the arson). Previously a working plantation owned by the family Nightingale, by the 1840s, the former Dungeness was described as abandoned and going to ruin. The Carnegies actually purchased the property from a General Davis, according to Bullard's book, in the year 1881, for the sum of $35,000. The Carnegie family built a new Dungeness mansion, starting construction in 1884 at a price reported at around $285,000 (with furnishings), according to Ms. Bullard.

CUMBERLAND ISLAND WAS A FAVORITE DESTINATION OF THE LATE JOHN F. KENNEDY, JR.

Even though today much of Cumberland Island is a National Park (about 80% of the island), daily visitors are restricted with limited ferry service. It's no wonder that the late John F. Kennedy, Jr. and his late wife, Carolyn Bessette, chose the magnificent natural setting and seclusion of Cumberland Island for their secretive wedding. (It took several days for the press to find out about their trip to the altar, in a tiny, antiquated church on this island.) Cumberland reportedly was one of John’s favorite escapes, having visited this island since he was a teenager.

Miles of Deserted, Pristine Beaches, Cumberland Island

Picnicking, beachcombing on miles of deserted beaches, and hiking along paths and sandy, unpaved roads cut through the maritime forest of Cumberland Island are just a few things that await visitors. And the peaceful solitude of nature -- and not much else. Even the forest, with a variety of oaks, looks windswept and timeless. The natural palmetto is thick, as is the Spanish moss-laden canopy of centuries-old oaks.

Windswept Oaks and Palmetto Border the Dunes, Cumberland Island

It’s difficult to describe the natural delight of this untouched barrier island that likely looks the same as it did a century ago. It’s a priceless jewel of the state of Georgia, indeed! But it may not have gone this way, if a real estate developer, Charles Fraser of Hilton Head, owner of a large parcel of Cumberland, hadn’t abandoned his plans to develop Cumberland Island. He reportedly had purchased land from Carnegie heirs in 1969. His intent was to build houses, apartments, marinas, a golf course, air strip, shopping, a hospital, and more, according to author Mary Bullard.

Thankfully, Fraser was unsuccessful in his effort to develop the island, and Cumberland has been preserved in its natural state for eternity. Island residents reportedly banned together with environmental organizations and the Department of the Interior to support the acquisition of Cumberland by the National Park Service.

Their actions were a personal sacrifice too, as they were required to sell their property on Cumberland to the National Park Service in order to perserve it -- an indication of how dear to the heart Cumberland was to those who knew it best. Rights of land use and occupancy were granted to landowners, but those rights will be expiring this century. Furthermore, donations by the Carnegies and funds from supporting foundations helped to win Congressional approval to turn Cumberland into a protected National Seashore.

Learn a lot more about Cumberland Island and see exquisite photos of this natural paradise. There are several Cumberland Island books available online in Amelia Island Living's Florida Marketplace. A photographic masterpiece is "The Seasons of Cumberland Island," by park ranger and naturalist Fred Whitehead. This is a beautiful coffee table book showing Cumberland's rare beauty and makes a wonderful gift. Also, scenes of Cumberland Island to hang on your wall -- framed artwork and photographic posters.

HOW TO ACCESS CUMBERLAND ISLAND NATIONAL SEASHORE

You can’t drive to Cumberland Island (there’s no bridge), so you must take a ferry. From Fernandina Beach, drive north on I-95 to St. Marys, Georgia. It’s within this sleepy little Georgia town that you can catch a National Park Service ferry to Cumberland. The ferry ticket cost from St. Marys to Cumberland, is $17 per adult, $15 for seniors, and $12 for children aged 12 and under. The park entry fee is $4 per person for those over age 16, otherwise free for youth. Starting in January 2008, the park entrance fee will increase to $7. Public access is limited to a maximum of 300 people per day. (Prices are subject to change, so check for the latest information from the National Park Service website www.nps.gov/cuis.) Ferry reservations can be reserved up to six months in advance by calling 1-888-817-3421 (see ferry schedule online via National Park Service site). Be advised not to miss the return ferry – missing the boat back to St. Marys means you have to charter a private boat to return to the mainland.

The docks on Cumberland are private, so boat owners are not allowed to dock. (What some boaters do, however, is park boats a bit off the shoreline, throw an anchor, and then wade into shore.)

A note of advice for parents. There is no island transportation, so plan on walking around Cumberland. But there are bikes available for rent at Cumberland's Sea Camp. You must check with the ferry deck hands to rent bicycles -- the Park Service staff does not handle bike rentals. Those with young children need to realize that an excursion to Cumberland is really not suitable for the little ones. You will do a lot of walking to explore the island, and likely end up having to carry children who may tire -- it's not a place to be pushing strollers around. Think about treating yourself to some quiet time with your camera, and get a babysitter.

Make sure you wear sneakers or shoes that are comfortable, pack a lunch, snacks, and water bottles (there's no concession to buy food), and bring sunscreen and bug spray. The heat of the summer would be a less desirable time to visit the island. Early spring and late fall are ideal times for exploring and hiking.

CAMPING ON CUMBERLAND ISLAND, GEORGIA

Both “backcountry” camping and a more developed campground are offered on Cumberland Island. The backcountry campsites do not offer any facilities, and has nearby well water that must be treated. Camp fires are not permitted in the backcountry. Sea Camp Beach campground has restrooms, cold showers, and drinking water. Camp fires are permitted at Sea Camp Beach. All camping is limited to seven days, and camping permits and reservations are required. Call 1-888-817-3421 (from 10 am to 4 pm eastern time, weekdays) for further information and camping reservations.

Greyfield Inn, Cumberland Island

ROMANTIC & SECLUDED GREYFIELD INN BED & BREAKFAST

Apart from a few campsites suitable for diehard campers who like to rough it, only one public lodging establishment is located on Cumberland today -- the lovely Greyfield Inn.

If you desire a truly unique experience where tranquility is the tonic you seek, along with great food (and reportedly good dinner conversation, too), then the Greyfield Inn is the place. This graceful home is a very special treat, indeed, to get away from it all, relax and de-stress. Built in 1900, Greyfield Inn was previously chosen as one of the "Top 10 most romantic inns" by American Historic Inns. To make this list, inns are selected for various features, including overall "romantic mystique." The home was originally built for Lucy and Thomas Carnegie's daughter, Margaret Ricketson. In 1962, it was opened as The Greyfield Inn by Margaret's daughter, Lucy R. Ferguson, and her family.

Rates for double occupancy range from around $400-plus per night, but do include a southern breakfast, picnic lunch, gourmet dinner, a natural history jeep tour of the island, and ferry service to and from Fernandina Beach on the inn's private ferry. Children 6-years-plus are "welcomed."

As noted earlier, a visit to Cumberland Island will likely be one of the most unique, natural locations you've ever had the opportunity to visit, and is highly recommended. Realize that the inn's phone is a radio-phone for emergencies and your cell phone may not work. This will NOT be a "working vacation" so leave your electronic technology at home and truly escape your boss, your business associates (and anyone else for that matter), who's not with you on the trip. You will be visiting an undeveloped island, a highly-protected national seashore with no stores, no street lights, no public transportation (no paved roads), no TVs in your room. This is definitely the place to bring that book you've been wanting to read, but can't find the time. Leave your technology at home. Really get away from society and revel in this natural sanctuary. A few days on Cumberland and you may not ever want to leave.

For complete information, visit the Greyfield Inn's website at www.greyfieldinn.com.

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About the author -- W. B. Lawson has lived on Amelia Island fourteen years, and writes tourism, lifestyle, and real estate articles. Send eMail to contact@ameliaislandliving.com.