Advice on Magnolias, Crape Myrtle, Palms, Attracting Birds To Your Feeder & More...

EDITOR'S NOTE: A University of Florida/Nassau County Cooperative Extension Service Horticulture Agent, Ms. Rebecca Jordi addresses some of the questions she receives about landscaping and gardening in North Florida, in the GARDENING ZONE. Have a question yourself? E-Mail Ms. Jordi: rljordi@mail.ifas.ufl.edu
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QUESTION: Do you have birds at your house? I hear birds in the trees, but all we get in the yard are two pair of mourning doves and an occasional large black bird. I have not seen the first hummingbird. Are we doing something wrong? We put out seed regularly and keep the birdbath full. ER

MS. JORDI: I have a constant flow of titmice, cardinals, mockingbirds, woodpeckers, etc. My feeder sits directly in front of a large cluster of shrubs and trees. These shrubs provide excellent cover and protection for the birds, which flit back and forth from the shrubs to my feeder. In addition, I use a good quality songbird seed, which

Firespike

contains very little filler. Consider planting more native trees and shrubs, reduce the use of pesticides in your landscape, remove exotic plants, and plant shrubs near your feeder to give the birds a place to feel safe. I have had no luck with ruby-throated hummingbirds, the species found in North Florida, although I know many people who have constant hummingbird visitors. Choose some plants to attract the hummingbirds such as Bottlebrush, Lantana, Firespike, Coral Honeysuckle or Red Basil. Put out hummingbird nectar (never honey) and be sure to clean your feeder every couple days. Once they locate your area as a food source they will return year after year, but we probably need to be patient. For more complete information, please attend our lecture “Landscaping to Attract Birds” on July 16, at the Peck Center from 10- 11. Call the Extension Office (904 879-1019) if you plan to attend.

Magnolia Flower

QUESTION: There are "shoots," fully leafed like little trees, from two to six feet in height, growing from my 40-50' magnolia trees. I have three questions: 1. These appear to be "head starts" on trees; is there anyway to root a growing shoot of this size? 2. Should these be pruned to their roots so as to prevent them "feeding" on the mother tree food supply? 3. Is there any recommended care that would ensure the longevity of these beautiful trees? I have a lot of drop of unopened flowers from my magnolias that lead me to believe they are experiencing some deficiency or stress. Thank you. SG

MS. JORDI: Some species of magnolia have a tendency to sprout suckers or it may be an indication of environmental stress. In addition, magnolia species differ in their ability to propagate (some are easier to propagate than others). A few magnolias require hormone treatment and special misting chambers. If you decide to propagate the magnolias on your property (and you really have nothing to lose), take the younger, smaller suckers to ensure better success. Use a sterile pruning shear, cut the sucker about 4-6 inches long at an angle, remove all but the top 3-5 leaves, remove any flowers or buds, dip the cut end immediately in a rooting hormone and place in a sterile medium such as perlite or sand. The medium of perlite or sand should be moist but not wet. Cover the cutting with a plastic bag to help retain moisture, keep it away from direct light, and wait for it to develop roots. Once the roots develop, you may place the cutting in clean potting soil or directly into your landscape. Removing the suckers is probably wise especially considering the adult height of a mature tree. In addition, since the roots of magnolia trees normally spread four times the trees’ canopy, it would be best to give these new magnolias a larger place to develop. The dropping of the flower buds could be the result of several different problems such as environmental stress or construction disturbance around the root area or insect infestations. However, trees in perfect health drop a number of their flower buds and some magnolias are notorious for this. The best advice for keeping an adult tree in good health is to avoid construction or traffic around the root area, and do no fertilize or water this tree unless we are under extreme drought conditions. A tree this size is able to obtain water and nutrients from the surrounding area.

Crape Myrtle

QUESTION: My hubby planted four crape myrtle trees, approximately four feet high around April. These trees are young but we have seen similar plants throughout Jacksonville and Fernandina in full bloom. My hubby questions that maybe ours are too young and have to adjust to the soil etc. There are no buds on the trees as far as we can tell right now. They are planted in partial sun and shade. Can you help us out? Thanking you in advance. BT

MS. JORDI: Crape myrtles are easy to grow if placed in the proper environment. I may be able to give you a few reasons why they are not blooming as yet: genetics (they will bloom, but you need to give them more time); adjustment to their environment; improper pruning causing them to be in a recovery stage; improper fertilization which can cause a foliage output but no blooms; stressed caused by too much water (crape myrtles are drought tolerant plants); or they were planted too deeply. Crape myrtles like full sun but not wet feet (you might want to redirect your irrigation away from them). In general, blooming occurs (depending on species) in late spring or early summer. However, a species of crepe myrtle exists called the Queen's Crape Myrtle that blooms in June or July, it is possible you have one of those. Be patient and, if necessary, adjust the cultural practices I listed above. Crape myrtles are especially sensitive to being planted too deeply. If the trees were planted too deeply, it might be best to replant them at the proper depth. To ensure proper depth, the top root should be at or just below soil level. Check out the info on crepe myrtles from the University of Florida website. http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/trees/LAGINDA.pdf or http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG266

Tea Olive

QUESTION: I have shrubs that are referred to as Tea Olive. The American Horticulture Guide doesn't show this tree -- at least as a common name for this particular plant. Any idea what the Latin name is so I can read more about them? Mine haven't flowered, were planted in soil I suspect is at best modestly alkaline, have been leggy. I didn't plant them, I'm not sure of sun requirements, but I'm going to try to move them. Thanks again for the great help. SG
MS. JORDI: It is possible you do not have a Tea Olive, but if you do it is probably Osmanthus fragrans, which is also called Sweet Osmanthus or Tea Olive. Common names are often difficult because they vary from region to region. This shrub should be grown only in North Florida, however, it will do well in full sun or partial shade. The soil should be fertile and well drained (meaning Tea Olive doesn't like wet feet), pH is variable, but it is not salt tolerant. It has a tendency toward root rot if grown in wet areas, therefore, it would be wise to transplant this shrub if you feel it is getting too much water. It flowers in the late winter, producing fragrant white clusters. Avoid pruning until after it flowers otherwise you may remove the buds of future flowers. Its growth rate is medium reaching a potential height of 20 - 25 feet with a 10-15 foot spread. If you recently transplanted this shrub, I would give it some more time to get established. Avoid over fertilizing shrubs and trees as it may cause them to produce foliage at the expense of flowers. Over fertilizing can also cause shrubs to produce long leggy shoots. I hope this information helps. Good luck.

QUESTION: I have a 10-year-old gardenia that has outgrown its location. It is approximately 10 - 12 feet high with about the same width measurement. It is very healthy. Can it be moved? If so when and how should I go about it? Thanks, DD.

MS. JORDI: Transplanting any shrub that large and that old is going to be risky. Your decision must be based on the possibility of losing the whole shrub. However, with the proper care, it may survive. If you decide to move it, consider doing it when the shrub is dormant such as late fall or winter. Take as much of the root system as you can; the larger the root ball the better. Once you start digging, you may realize you have more than one shrub. Dig a hole at the new site approximately 3-5 times the size of the shrub root ball and loosen the soil to prepare for the new shrub. Transporting such a large specimen is going to be a feat too! Add no fertilizer to the hole and do not prune the shrub prior to transplanting. Gardenias prefer well-drained acid soils. After the shrub is in place, fill the hole completely to avoid air pockets. Water the shrub often for the first few weeks or so (not too much since this is the dormant season). Check out Dr. Ed Gilman's UF website on planting trees (most of this same information also applies to shrubs). Click on any of the tabs on the far left hand side of the UF website for more in-depth information. I'm keeping my fingers crossed - good luck. Visit http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/planting/index.htm or http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG336.

Pindo Palm

QUESTION: I enjoy your column very much in the Amelia Island Living eNewsletter and have learned a lot about Florida flora and fauna since moving here. However, I am now having a problem with Pindo palms. One has completely rotted from the inside out and the heart softened and fronds died. Now others are doing the same. I believe little bugs are in the hearts and don't know how to prevent more destruction. I hired a certified arborist who said it must be fungal and to dig them up and sterilize the ground. Hopefully, there is another solution. Thank you for your response. JL

MS. JORDI: I would love to get a few samples of the "little bugs." I suspect the real culprit may have been the freezing temperature we experienced this past winter. Pindo palms (Butia capitata) are hardy for our area and most of the time they are able to survive our cooler winters but last year was difficult for many palms. Often, on palms, we do not see the results of the freeze damage for six months or more. Insects or diseases, which may already be present on the palm, overtake the palm in its weakened state. As a result, the palm is unable to survive. Unfortunately, there is little that can be done to a palm once tissue damage has occurred, therefore, removal is the best solution. There are a few things you can do to prepare for the possibility of cold temperatures in the future. Palms deficient in an important major nutrient often succumb to harsh environmental stresses. Therefore, it is important to give palms complete palm fertilizers in the summer and fall to bolster their ability to withstand winter cold. Be sure palms are watered 48 hours prior to the freeze (this would apply to any tree or shrub) and protect the main terminal bud and root tissue as much as possible. Please check the University of Florida publication regarding treatment of cold-damaged palms. This publication does discuss the use of fungicides prior to freezes, but the research is not conclusive. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG318.
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Rebecca Jordi
Extension Horticulture Agent
University of Florida/Nassau County Cooperative Extension Service
Send eMail to: rljordi@mail.ifas.ufl.edu

(904) 879-1019
Fax: (904) 879-2097
972 S. Kings Road
Callahan, FL 32011
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