The Bounty of Amelia Island: History, Beaches, Nature, Golf

Posted in: Tourism & Attractions
By W. B. Lawson
Feb 27, 2009 - 8:48:16 AM

Amelia Island hosts fun festivals (Shrimp & Art, Music, Books, Nature, and Film) at various times throughout the year to complement the island's compelling allure.  The barrier island in northeast Florida (near the Georgia border), was the original Florida tourist destination, dubbed "The Newport of the South"  in its 19th century heyday.  Northern tourists flocked to Amelia back in America's Golden Age (1870 to 1910).  A special walking tour, "The Golden Era of Amelia Island,"  highlighting this period is currently being offered through May 31st, to include Fernandina's "Silk Stocking District."  Reservations are required in advance -- contact the Amelia Island Museum (904)261-7378. (See Amelia Island's calendar of events and more about Amelia's six festivals at the end of this article…)

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Summer Beach, Amelia Island, Florida

In more recent times, Conde Nast Traveler's discriminating readers have ranked Amelia Island the “top Florida island and one of the"Top 10 North American Islands," according to a Reader's Choice survey (11/2008). The Victorian-era seaport of Fernandina Beach, located on Amelia Island, has made the National Trust's list of “12 top vacation destinations in the United States for historic preservation.” 

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Historic District, Centre Street, Fernandina Beach
The only location in the U.S. to have flown eight flags throughout history (as dibs on the island changed hands), the bounty of Amelia Island was not plundered by pirates of the past. Nor was this barrirer island's historic seaport of Fernandina Beach over-commercialized --its historic character was, thankfully, not lost to modernization of the twentieth century. Amelia Island's treasures remain to be appreciated today as they were long ago. 

Fernandina's 52-block historic district (with 450-plus historic structures on the National Register of Historic Places -- homes, churches, commercial buildings) was preserved like a Victorian time capsule, providing a glimpse of small-town, yesteryear Florida. You can hop aboard a trolley for a tour of the island's key attractions.  Also visit the Amelia Island museum, take guided tours with museum docents (there's also a ghost tour to explore island haunts every Friday night), or take a self-guided walking tour of the historic district. (Also visit the museum's website at www.ameliamuseum.org.)

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Fort Clinch State Park, Overlooking Cumberland Sound
Of interest to history buffs will also be the island's civil-war era fortress (surrounded by more than 1,100 preserved acres of maritime forest in Fort Clinch State Park). Amelia Island is also home to the oldest existing lighthouse in the state of Florida, dating back to 1839, the oldest surviving hotel (the 1857 Florida House Inn) and the oldest continually-operating Saloon (The Palace). 

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Amelia Island Ritz-Carlton Hotel
It's really only in contemporary times -- in the last 30 years -- that tourism has been rebuilt on Amelia Island from its former historic heyday. In the 1970s, Amelia Island emerged as a posh resort island destination when Amelia Island Plantation (AIP) carefully began development of the southend of the island. AIP focused on habitat preservation with significant green space and has a nature center and staff naturalist.

Realizing the 5-star cultural and natural assets of Amelia Island, later came another luxury resort, the Ritz-Carlton and Summer Beach in the early 1990s. These resorts offer five championship-quality golf courses.  Also located on the island is the City of Fernandina's municipal golf course with 27 holes.

"THE QUEEN OF SUMMER RESORTS..."

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Golf Club Amelia, Summer Beach
Before tourists ventured further south in Florida with expansion of the railroad system, Fernandina was the original Florida tourist mecca with northerners arriving by steam ship.  Known as “the queen of summer resorts”  in 1896, wealthy, high-society families -- the Carnegies, Vanderbilts, and Duponts, were among visitors.

SURVIVING MASS COMMERCIALIZATION

In retrospect, a snub by railroad tycoon Henry Flagler (of Standard Oil), that resulted in the new north-south rail line bypassing Fernandina, turned out to be its savior.  The tourist trade from northern states headed further south in Florida, crippling Fernandina's tourism industry.  Historic hardship aside, it turned out to be a blessing for the future of this seaside community, allowing Fernandina's vintage buildings and heritage to remain intact rather than disappearing with 20th century modernization. 

Today, zoning restrictions have limited structures to 7 or 8 stories, so you won't see any high rise condos on the shores of this preserved gem in northeast Florida.  (Perhaps city elders should pay tribute to the man who inadvertently helped preserve Fernandina's architectural heritage -- a "Hats off to Henry" day with a commemorative toast at the Palace Saloon).

Historic District Offers Glimpse of Yesteryear Florida

Besides the oceanfront luxury resorts with pampering spas, fantastic golf, tennis complexes and oceanfront pools, at the other end of the spectrum is Amelia Island's 52-block historic district in Fernandina Beach.  Offering quaint, historic bed & breakfast inns, this idyllic small harbor town (sometimes called “a tropical Mayberry,”) showcases some of the best preserved Victorian-era architecture on the eastern seaboard in the U.S.  Just stroll down some of the streets off Centre to admire gracious Queen Annes, charming Victorian cottages and bungalows, sweeping verandahs, and sidewalks lined with ancient oaks draped in moss. Various architectural styles were fashionable during the Victorian era, in the 1850 to 1910 period.

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Tourist Visitor Center, Fernandina's Centre Street
Stately magnolia trees, cabbage palms, sagos and hibiscus add to the southern landscape in this small, nostalgic town by the sea. Get all the info you need at the Visitor's Bureau at foot of historic Centre Street in Fernandina, located by the harborfront in the historic train depot (904)277-0717.

AMELIA'S NATURAL BOUNTY IS PLENTIFUL

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Great Blue Heron, Amelia Island
But it is Amelia's natural treasures that appeal to those seeking the bounty of the beach and the simple pleasures of nature. Amelia Island, literally, is surrounded by waterways and the preserved lands of three other nearby islands.  To the north is Cumberland Island, GA (a protected National Seashore), to its south is Big Talbot and Little Talbot Islands (Florida State Parks).  The abundance of nature and wildlife in the Amelia Island area attracts eco-tourists desiring outdoor activities like hiking, biking, birding, boating, fishing and paddling. 

Amelia's natural bounty includes salt marsh, 13 miles of beaches, coastal hammocks, maritime forest and, of course, its waterways – Egans Creek (and the Egans Greenway preserve), the Amelia River/intracoastal, Cumberland Sound and the Atlantic Ocean).  The Amelia Island State Park encompasses the southern tip of this barrier island. And as noted above, Fort Clinch State Park sprawls across the island's northern tip.

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Marina,Egans Creek, Amelia Island, Fernandina
There's opportunity to venture on the East Florida Birding Trail in Fort Clinch State Park, the “gateway” to the birding trail on Florida's east coast. Dolphins are a common sight in the surrounding waterways (sometimes manatees), sea turtles nest on Amelia's beaches, and Audubon enthusiasts will marvel at the quantity and variety of birdlife, not to mention anglers coveting the fishing. Highly endangered northern right whales migrate during winter months and can be spotted in the waters around Amelia Island.  

Naturally, the island's waterways are a maritime playground with several marinas and boat ramps to launch your boat, including the Dee Dee Bartels public boat ramp toward the north/west side of the island. It's here you'll witness stunning sunsets over the Amelia River. Charter boats are available for nature tours of the waterways and fishing trips.

FERNANDINA'S SHRIMP BOATS

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Shrimp Boats Fernandina Beach Docks
Birthplace of the modern shrimping industry in America, Fernandina shrimp boats remain docked near the city marina (although fewer in number these days). Amelia Island's “Isle of 8 Flags Shrimp Festival,” attracts over 100,000 visitors (always held the first weekend in May each year.) The bonus of shrimp boats here in Fernandina means fresh, wild-caught shrimp from local waters appearing on plates in Amelia Island restaurants in a day or less, sometimes (be sure to ask for the local shrimp when dining out.)  Let's put another check mark in the “good life” column, here in Fernandina Beach. 

AMELIA ISLAND'S FINE DINING, ANTIQUE SHOPS, ART GALLERIES

For those seeking to satisfy the palate, fine dining awaits at top-rated Amelia Island restaurants, including Salt (Ritz-Carlton), Ocean Grill, PLAE and Verandah (Amelia Island Plantation resort), and Horizons (all located toward the south-end of Amelia Island); and in the historic district in downtown Fernandina Beach, are Beech Street, Joe's 2nd Street Bistro, and LeClos. Also browse eclectic boutiques, antique shops and art galleries in the historic district.

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Kayaking Egans Creek, Amelia Island, Fernandina
Yet there's more to relish on this barrier island and nearby. For those seeking adventure and romance, ride horses on the beach or take a horse-drawn carriage ride through the historic district, or set sail on a sunset cruise. The Amelia Island State Park located at the island's southern tip is the only state park in Florida to offer horseback riding on the beach (via Kelly Seahorse Ranch). Kayaking on the nearby waterways or camping in Fort Clinch will delight outdoor adventurers.

NEARBY CUMBERLAND ISLAND, GEORGIA AND ST. MARYS

Amelia Island is very close to the Georgia mainland, and just across the Cumberland Sound from another splendid island (Cumberland Island, Georgia – the largest wilderness island in the U.S., a largely protected National Seashore with wild horses). The close proximity of Georgia allows visitors to experience a unique glimpse of coastal nature and two historic towns, St. Marys, Georgia and Fernandina, FL. 

A direct trip to Cumberland is available only via limited ferry service that departs from St. Marys, and requires planning ahead. However, a new ferry service, the Cumberland Sound Ferry, does now provide transportation between Fernandina and St. Marys (about a 45-minute ferry ride between these two coastal towns).  Thus,  visitors can either drive to St. Marys, Georgia and catch the direct ferry to Cumberland, or catch the ferry from Fernandina to connect to the St. Marys' ferry, to reach Cumberland Island.

NEARBY TALBOT ISLANDS, FLORIDA STATE PARKS

Take an easy drive off Amelia Island's southend to enjoy more nature and beachfront on the Talbots within minutes.  The Talbot barrier islands are part of the Florida State Park system. The mile-long George Crady Bridge Fishing Pier extends across the Nassau Sound on Amelia Island's southern tip. This fishing “pier” is the old bridge, located alongside the new bridge that connects Amelia Island to Big Talbot Island.

WHAT'S HAPPENING IN 2009 ON AMELIA ISLAND?

HERE'S A SHORT LIST OF THE TOP 2009 EVENTS TAKING PLACE ON AMELIA ISLAND

March 13-15, 2009Amelia Island Concours d'Elegance (http://www.ameliaconcours.org/, 904-636-0027).

May 1-3, 2009 – Isle of Eight Flags Shrimp Festival (http://www.shrimpfestival.com/, 1-866-4AMELIA).

May 15-17, 2009 – Wild Amelia Nature Festival (http://www.wildamelia.com/, (904-251-0016).

May 21 – June 14, 2009Amelia Island Chamber Music Festival (http://www.aicmf.com/, 904-261-1779.

Amelia Island Book Festival, call for dates (http://www.bookisland.org/, 904-491-8176 .)

October 4-11, 2009 – Amelia Island Jazz Festival (http://www.ameliaislandjazzfestival.com/).

Note Film Festival change.  October 30, 2009 is the Amelia Island Film Festival deadline to submit film entries for the Film Festival (this event has been rescheduled to take place February 25-28, 2010).  http://www.ameliaislandfilmfestival.org/, 904-335-1110.

INTERACTIVE VISITOR'S GUIDE – View the official Tourist Council 2009 Amelia Island Visitor's Guide at http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/ameliaisland/vg09/

About the author: W.B. Lawson of Florida Fine Living Media, Inc., writes lifestyle, tourism, and real estate articles, published in Amelia Island Living eMagazine and also blogs on the social network AmeliaIslandLiving.NET, “Life in an island town…”. SUBSCRIBE TO AMELIA ISLAND RSS FEEDS.